Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors alike praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a international community of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always characterized its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children do not want to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to discover these tales and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
